The 2024 Big Walk from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku: A New Twist on Our Tradition
Another year, another Big Walk. I started it in 1997. It has been an ongoing project of mine. My wife and I have walked from one station on the Yamanote Line to Ginza or Tokyo Station every year. It’s our favorite way to spend New Year’s Eve. We like to see that one day of the year when the city streets are mostly empty. 2024 saw us change our plans, though.
A new direction for an old tradition
The Yamanote Line has thirty stations. We had walked from twenty-seven of them to Tokyo, and only Kanda and Yurakucho were left. They were on either side of Tokyo Station, only a ten-minute walk away. That didn’t seem like fun. After some thought, we flipped things around and did things in reverse. Shinjuku was our destination.
It didn’t feel like winter
When we started our “Big Walk” in 1997, the weather was actually cold. Blue skies graced us, but it was relatively warm for winter. That has been common for the last few years. So even though I was dressed in a beanie, jacket, and gloves, I took them off soon after leaving Tokyo Station.
A few people on the streets wore shorts. I might dress the same in 2025. That should give you some idea of Tokyo’s recent weather. Is it a sign of global warming? Whatever the case, it was a good start for our walk.
Tokyo Station is a trial on December 31
We got a surprise straight off the bat. Tokyo’s streets are mostly deserted on New Year’s Eve. But we forgot Tokyo Station would be different. It’s one of the few places where the city is crowded. People are moving somewhere for the holidays. Trying to find an uncrowded eatery for breakfast was a trial.
Our first stop: Imperial Palace
From Tokyo Station, we headed straight to the Imperial Palace. Many tourists were around the Main Gate, taking selfies with Eyeglasses Bridge in the background. Tents were up too.
They are needed for January 2 when the Emperor appears on Chowaden Hall’s balcony. The public is allowed into the palace for the event. They pass through the tents for a security check. On that day, more than 10,000 will flood the palace.
We looped around the palace to the Hanzo Gate. With deep blue cloudless skies, the views towards the Marunouchi were great. Then we entered Shinjuku-Dori, the road to our destination.
A different Tokyo
The area between the palace and Shinjuku is an older area of Tokyo. Commercial and retail establishments line it. A few temples and shrines will be found, though. The most interesting thing about December 31 is that normally, traffic-jammed streets have few cars on them. Hardly anyone was on the street. I didn’t see one suit and tie. It was surreal, but I love this time of year for that very reason.
I saw Yotsuya’s Sophia University for the first time. It’s known for its language programs. I’ve met many of its students and they speak good English. Maybe I’m generalizing, but it has been my experience.
The end of the Big Walk
Our arrival in Shinjuku was a mix of feelings. It took about ninety minutes, so short! But we did see the city on its last day. We saw the empty streets. It’s another side of Tokyo we love.
The Big Walk finished at the 3D Cat Billboard. It appeared on screen just as we arrived under it. When it meowed, we knew our day was over. It was the perfect end for another great walk.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
