Imagine a soft, chewy snack on a stick, perfectly grilled and slathered in a sweet and savory glaze. It’s traditional, incredibly delicious, and costs less than a cup of coffee. This is dango, and it’s my absolute go-to comfort food.
The magic starts with rice flour, which is kneaded and rolled into wonderfully chewy balls. Those are skewered, three or four at a time, and then lightly grilled or served fresh. Don’t forget to lacquer them with a thick, sweet soy sauce glaze (mitarashi). Maybe you prefer a generous dollop of earthy red bean paste (anko). There are countless regional variations, too—in Yamaga City, they even use chestnuts!
You can find dango almost anywhere. For a treat, visit a shop specializing in Japanese sweets (wagashi), though they can be pricier. For a more authentic experience, nothing beats a freshly grilled skewer from a festival stall, heated over a crackling charcoal stove.
But my favorite tip? Head to your local supermarket or convenience store. I got the dango pictured here at an Ozeki supermarket in Tokyo for only ¥119 (tax not included). An absolute bargain!
While many people enjoy dango with a cup of green tea, I prefer to eat mine while walking and exploring. This is especially true at a place like Mount Takao, where a couple of shops sell delicious, giant-sized dango.
Here’s a pro-tip: Japan is famous for its lack of public rubbish bins. Carrying that sticky, empty skewer home is a pain. Carry a couple of old plastic shopping bags for these!
To avoid the sticky-skewer problem, I often enjoy dango at home. And while green tea is the traditional choice, I’m going to let you in on a secret: it’s even better with coffee.
Are the foodies screaming? Let them! The robust bitterness of a simple black coffee is the perfect counterpoint to the intense sweetness of the dango’s glaze. It’s an unconventional pairing that works.
I used to think these little rice balls were a guilt-free treat. While they aren’t the worst dessert, some dango—especially the glazed and paste-covered varieties—contain a lot of sugar. If you’re health-conscious, enjoy them in moderation. Your dentist will thank you.
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
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