Just a short trip from Tokyo, within sight of the active Yokosuka Naval Base, rests a time capsule of naval history: the IJN Mikasa. This legendary pre-dreadnought battleship, a hero of the Russo-Japanese War, is now a must-see museum in the park that shares her name. For any military history enthusiast, a visit to the Mikasa offers a remarkable journey back in time.
Permanently encased in concrete and pointing toward the Tokyo Imperial Palace, the 15,380-ton ship remains a powerful symbol. Nearby stands a statue of Admiral Heihachirō Tōgō, who commanded the fleet from the Mikasa during the pivotal Battle of Tsushima. The two heroes, the ship and the admiral, are still together.
My first visit to Mikasa was in 2012, and I returned in 2020. While a few superficial things had changed, the powerful essence of the ship remained the same.
As you explore the battleship, you are immediately immersed in a tangible piece of naval history. You can walk past massive gun turrets, through the crew’s battle stations, the radio and chart rooms, and stand on the armored bridge. Markers show where Russian shells struck the ship during the battle. Plaques on the bridge also show the positions of commanding officers. You get a sense of that day’s events.
You’ll also gain insight into the daily lives of battleship crews from that era. These ships were formidable war machines, but living conditions were basic. Some sailors even slept and ate at their gun stations. With much of the ship open to the elements, deck life must have been incredibly tough.
Below the main deck, a museum primarily focuses on the Battle of Tsushima in May 1905. A highlight is a diorama of the battle, complete with moving model ships and sound effects. It’s a pity that the narration is only in Japanese, but the visual storytelling is still compelling.
The museum also displays period uniforms, Mikasa’s original bow crest, medals, and various ship models, including modern ones. While there are exhibits on other aspects of early twentieth-century Japanese history, you won’t find anything about World War II.
A fantastic and interactive addition is a set of naval battle simulators. I had the chance to step into Admiral Tōgō’s shoes for a moment and command the fleet. The games are in Japanese, but their simple design makes them easy to figure out and enjoy, regardless of any language barrier.
To take a break from exploring, you can watch a Japanese film in the main deck’s theater. The dramatic battle sequences need no translation!
A visit to the IJN Mikasa is a powerful lesson in naval history. While the guns on deck are replicas, the rest of the ship is authentic. It provides a genuine sense of the harsh realities faced by naval crews of all nations in that era, from the unforgiving seas to the heat of battle.
Here is Mikasa on a Google map:
She is most remembered for her single day of glory in the Sea of Japan in 1905. But her history is a respected part of Japan’s naval heritage that spans over a century.
The IJN Mikasa was a pre-dreadnought battleship built in the late 1890s and named after Mount Mikasa in Nara. She was the only ship of her class. Admiral Heihachirō Tōgō chose her as his flagship for the Russo-Japanese War (1904–1905), and together they fought at the Battle of Port Arthur, the Battle of the Yellow Sea, and the decisive Battle of Tsushima.
Just six days after the war ended, the Mikasa tragically sank at her moorings in Sasebo due to a fire and magazine explosion, which killed 251 crewmen. She was later refloated and repaired.
The battleship went on to serve in a coastal defense role during World War I and assisted in Japan’s intervention in the Russian Civil War. In 1921, she was officially reclassified as a coastal defense ship. Her active career concluded in 1923 under the terms of the Washington Naval Treaty, which required her to be scrapped. However, Japan successfully requested that the ship be preserved as a memorial, and she was encased in concrete.
After years of neglect, the ship was in poor condition following World War II. A 1955 letter to the Japan Times by a Philadelphia businessman, John Rubin, sparked a new restoration campaign. This effort was supported by the Japanese public and U.S. Admiral Chester Nimitz. The restored battleship reopened to the public in 1961.
A visit to the Mikasa is an essential stop for any military history enthusiast, offering a tangible connection to the naval warfare of the early 20th century. For gamers, the experience is even more special—you can step onto the very decks of the legendary battleship featured in the game “World of Warships.” The volunteer crew, many of whom are former members of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, are a friendly and knowledgeable group, and some even speak English!
If you’ve had the chance to visit the Memorial Ship Mikasa, what were your impressions? I’d love to hear your thoughts. Please leave any questions or comments below.
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5 these days. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
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