Kagurazaka Awa Odori 2025: Dancing in the Streets

People crammed onto every available spot along Kagurazaka-Dori. You couldn’t walk a meter without bumping into someone. It was a hot night, so the beer was flowing to keep everyone cool as they gathered to enjoy Kagurazaka Awa Odori 2025. The clack of wooden geta sandals was everywhere as dancers hurried to their assigned positions. With so many spectators in colourful yukatas, the atmosphere was electric even before the first drumbeat.

A neighborhood of geishas and French bakeries

What makes this festival so special is its location. Kagurazaka is a fascinating blend of eras. Its winding backstreets still hold the secrets of the geisha houses that once defined it, and it’s not unheard of to see a geisha there today. At the same time, the neighbourhood has a modern, cosmopolitan feel, home to a large French community, bakeries, and cheese shops.

This deep sense of place is the perfect backdrop for the Awa Odori. The roots of the festival date to the Edo era and the construction of the area’s Ushigome Mitsuke gate near Edo Castle (now Imperial Palace).

The Awa Odori experience: A roar of drums and dance

On 26 July 2025, about twenty dance troupes (ren) brought that history to life. From my spot in the crowd, I couldn’t see the dancers over the crest of the hill at first. But what I loved was that you could hear the festival begin. A single, powerful taiko drum beat echoed down the street. Then the full sound of shamisen and chants grew louder as the first vibrant procession appeared, dancing its way down the narrow main street. This intimate setting, combined with the figure-8 course, meant that by moving around, I saw most groups several times.

What is Awa Odori?

At the heart of the festival is the Awa Odori itself, a ‘fool’s dance’ over 400 years old. Taiko drums and shamisen drive the festival’s famous chant: ‘The dancers are fools, the watchers are fools, if both are fools, you might as well dance!’

Troupes feature two distinct styles. There is the powerful, low-crouching men’s dance. The women’s dance is performed with precise, elegant steps on traditional geta sandals.

Special features of the Kagurazaka Awa Odori

While the dancing itself is the main draw, the Kagurazaka festival has other unique charms. The first two days include a Hozugi Market, where winter cherry seeds are sold for Obon.