Masashige Kusunoki Samurai who died for an Emperor
Did you know there’s a towering statue of a samurai in the Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace? Some visitors snap a quick picture. A few might marvel at the armor-clad figure on horseback, and move on. But who was this man? Why is he immortalized in the heart of Tokyo?
I first saw his statue in 1991 when I visited the Imperial Palace with a friend. We glanced at it, took some pictures, and moved on. I did notice a few things, though.
The statue was a beautiful piece of work. Intricate detail covered it. The man was covered in samurai armor, pulling on the reins to bring his mount to a stop. He looked very heroic. But I had no idea who he was.
Some years later, I passed through the area again. I stopped for a closer inspection. I read the plaque on it and found it was Masashige Kusunoki. Who was he? What did he do? Do you know? I did some research.
He was a 14th-century samurai who was more than just a historical figure. He symbolized loyalty, courage, and sacrifice—values celebrated long after his death. You might be drawn to his fascinating story. Maybe the intricate artistry of his statue might grab your attention. Whatever the case, this spot has more to offer than meets the eye.
A Brief History of Masashige Kusunoki
Masashige (1294 – 1336) was a 14th-century samurai. He came from a wealthy family and was a scholar and a devout Buddhist. On top of that, he was courageous and loyal to the emperor. That wasn’t uncommon at the time, so why was he special?
During his lifetime, the Kamakura shogunate ruled Japan. Of course, that was fine, but the Emperor, Go-Daigo, wanted real power returned to the throne.
According to legend, Go-Daigo had a dream when sleeping under a camphor tree (in Japanese, “Kusunoki”). Can you see where this is going? Yep, it’s easy to guess. Masashige found himself a loyalist general.
Luckily, he was a brilliant tactician and strategist. He defended two fortresses, Akasaka and Chihaya. That allowed Go-Daigo to return to power for a brief time. He rewarded Masashige for his efforts. The emperor gave him the governorship of Settsu and Kawachi Provinces (near Osaka). He also received court promotions and awards. That’s where it ended.
Things didn’t go well. Some of Go-Daigo’s followers were discontented with his rule. They wished to return to the way things were in the Heian period. One of them was the samurai Takauji Ashikaga. He raised an army supported by another branch of the Imperial line. The Genkō war started.
For the loyalists, it was a disaster. Go-Daigo ignored Kusunoki’s military advice. The two forces engaged each other near Kobe at the Battle of Minatogawa. Masashige was on the losing side and died. After the battle, his head was taken and sent to Kanshin-Ji (temple) for burial. The new court branded him a traitor. It is no surprise he dropped out of history for a time!
Things change, though. Neo-Confucian theories influenced scholars and samurai with new ideas during the Edo period. They created a new legend. He now epitomized loyalty, courage, and devotion to the emperor. In 1871 he was enshrined at Minatogawa Shrine. Masashige, even in death, became a tool of the state.
During World War II, the kamikaze revered him. They thought he had all the virtues they should have – loyalty, courage, and devotion. And like him, they died for an Emperor. And he became a great Tokyo photo spot for us.
Statue of Masashige Kusunoki Photography
- Benches surround the statue. And a toilet block is nearby. Keep that in mind when planning your pictures.
- Being in a park and up on a pedestal, it is straightforward to photograph. I suggest going there late afternoon as the sun should light the statue’s face. The window of opportunity will be short in winter.
- If you want to capture details, you will need a long lens. The head is relatively high up, so if you plan to zoom in, take a 100 to 200 mm. Of course, for those with only shorter lenses, crop your photos.
- The statue has a helmet and armor hanging out all over the place! They create a lot of shadows. For those who want more darkness in their photos, that is great! If you don’t, you will have to deal with them in post-processing. Bracketing or a long exposure might be helpful too.
- Trees surround the statue. Shadows will come into play earlier if you shoot there in the afternoon. That is another thing to keep in mind.
Where is Masashige Kusunoki’s statue?
It is in the Kokyo Gaien (Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace).
Address: 1-1 Kokyogaien, Chiyoda City, Tokyo
Here it is on a Google map:
Closest train stations:
- Hibiya on the Toei Mita and Tokyo Metro Chiyoda and Hibiya Lines.
- Yurakucho on the Keihin-Tohoku and Yamanote Lines.
Opening hours
The statue is in a park, so you can go whenever you like. It is open twenty-four hours a day. But, the lack of lighting at night might be problematic.
Admission costs
None.
Public restrooms
Available.
Conclusion
I like the statue because it is historically valuable and beautiful. The buildings around it provide a great contrast. Kusunoki provides a link to the past. And if you can catch them with some good background weather, a great picture will surely result. Leave questions and comments below.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.
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