Chasing the Sunset: A Winter Hike Up Mount Takao
An invitation from a friend to hike Mount Takao in December 2019 was an offer I couldn’t refuse. He was keen to experience Tokyo’s natural beauty and see the stars, and for me, it was a chance to revisit a place I hadn’t seen in years. More importantly, I had a photographic mission: to finally capture a Mount Takao sunset. The crisp, clear winter weather seemed to promise the perfect opportunity.
Our adventure began in Shinjuku, where we boarded the Keio Line for the roughly 50-minute journey to Takaosanguchi Station, the gateway to the mountain. After a satisfying soba lunch, we were ready to start our ascent.
The ascent: Trail 1
Mount Takao offers a variety of numbered trails, and we opted for Trail 1, known for being beginner-friendly and offering excellent views. While the path is mostly paved, we did encounter some steep sections that challenged us. However, the climb is manageable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.
The hike, which took us just under two hours, was a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown Tokyo. The path was dotted with serene Jizo statues and small shrines, sparking conversations about what life might have been like here in centuries past. The air was fresh, and the trail was relatively uncrowded. The few fellow hikers we encountered greeted us with a friendly “Konnichiwa,” adding to the pleasant atmosphere.
At the summit: Temples, tengu, and a test of patience
Reaching the summit area was a rewarding experience. We enjoyed exploring the grounds of the historic Yakuo-in Temple, a center of mountain worship for over a thousand years. The temple complex is known for its vibrant architecture and statues of tengu—mythical Shinto-Buddhist mountain gods, one with a long nose and another with a crow’s beak. Be prepared for a workout, though, as numerous stairs wind through the temple grounds.
As we neared the summit, the number of people increased, with many having taken the cable car or other routes. Surprisingly, most weren’t heading to the top. The reason soon became clear: a thick blanket of clouds was obscuring the much-anticipated view of Mount Fuji.
Disappointed but not defeated, we decided to wait. Our patience paid off. The strong winds began to work their magic, gradually pushing the clouds aside. First, the peak of Mount Fuji emerged, and soon, half of the iconic mountain was visible.
A sunset to remember
As the sun began its descent, the sky transformed into a canvas of brilliant yellows and oranges. Nature put on a spectacular show for us. Just before the sun disappeared, a formation of clouds swirled around Mount Fuji’s peak, resembling a dragon. The image brought to mind Hokusai‘s famous artwork, “Dragon Rising above Mount Fuji.” It was a truly magical end to the daylight hours.
Our hopes for a star-studded night sky, however, were not quite met. While a few stars twinkled above, the light pollution from the sprawling metropolis below kept the celestial display to a minimum.
The descent: A nighttime adventure
Our journey back down the mountain proved to be an adventure in itself. With no lights to guide us, we navigated the steep, unpaved sections of the trail with only a single torch and an iPhone for illumination. We also encountered some locked gates near the temples, forcing us to find alternative routes. Eventually, we made it to the cable car station, joining a few others who had been enjoying the mountain’s beer garden.
Tips for your Mount Takao hike
- Getting There: The most convenient way to reach Mount Takao is by taking the Keio Line from Shinjuku to Takaosanguchi Station. The journey takes approximately one hour.
- Choosing a Trail: For first-time visitors or those looking for a less strenuous hike, Trail 1 is an excellent choice as it is mostly paved and passes by major sights. More experienced hikers might consider other trails for a greater challenge.
- Be Prepared: Even on the “easiest” trail, some sections are steep. Wear comfortable walking shoes. For trails other than Trail 1, proper hiking boots are recommended.
- Night Hiking: If you plan to stay for the sunset, be aware that the trails are not lit. A headlamp or flashlight is essential for a safe descent. The cable car may have extended hours during certain events like the “Diamond Fuji” phenomenon in winter, but it’s crucial to check the schedule in advance.
- Crowds: Mount Takao can get very crowded, especially on weekends during the autumn foliage season in November. To avoid the crowds, consider visiting on a weekday.
- See more on the Keio Corporation’s official Mount Takao area website.
Final thoughts
Our day on Mount Takao was a memorable one. The hike was enjoyable, and the sunset was truly breathtaking. While some overgrown trees occasionally obstruct the views, and better lighting on the paths would be a welcome improvement for safety, Mount Takao remains a fantastic destination for a day trip from Tokyo. It offers a wonderful opportunity to connect with nature, enjoy stunning scenery, and create lasting memories with friends. I wholeheartedly recommend it.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5 these days. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
