No Mikoshi, No Problem: Paws and Kimonos Steal the Show at Sensoji Temple

A kaleidoscope of cats, dogs, and kimonos greeted me at Sensoji Temple. I had arrived with the fervent hope of witnessing the famed mikoshi (portable shrines) of the Sanja Festival, one of Tokyo’s largest and wildest Shinto festivals. However, my expectations were quickly dashed. The vibrant procession was nowhere to be found, not under the iconic Kaminarimon gate nor near the historic Asakusa Shrine. A fellow attendee informed me that the mikoshi were exclusively touring the local neighborhoods this year, a detail I had regrettably overlooked.

A new plan: Capturing color amidst the crowds

Undeterred, a new plan began to form. Drawing inspiration from a recent photography session focused on kimonos at this very temple, I decided to embrace the unexpected and refine my craft. The absence of the mikoshi did little to diminish the lively atmosphere. Sensoji and Asakusa Shrine were teeming with people, many of whom were elegantly dressed in traditional kimonos and summery yukatas, creating a spectacular sight.

The unofficial stars: Stylish pets of Asakusa

Adding to the visual feast was the delightful presence of numerous pets accompanying their owners. Many dogs were dressed to the nines in charming outfits. In a truly unusual sighting, one family had even brought their cat along for the festivities. While pets are not an uncommon sight at such events, they are overwhelmingly of the canine variety. On rare occasions, one might spot a meerkat, and even more seldom, a pig or a rabbit. But a cat? That was a first for me. The dedication of some owners is truly remarkable, sparing no expense to adorn their furry companions in all manner of cute and elaborate attire.

The challenge of photographing patterns

The kimonos themselves were a photographer’s dream, with some boasting incredibly vibrant and colorful designs. Capturing their beauty proved to be a delightful challenge amidst the bustling crowd. Just as I would frame the perfect shot, a subject would turn, or a passerby would wander into my view. At times, even my camera’s autofocus struggled to keep up with the dynamic environment.

The lively atmosphere of Asakusa

Asakusa is a hub for kimono rental shops, and it was evident they were doing a brisk trade. A quick search online later revealed that the prices were more reasonable than I had anticipated, likely a result of fierce competition, especially during the warmer months. The cheerful rickshaw drivers were also having a busy day, their energetic strides a familiar and welcome sight on the streets of Asakusa. Perhaps a ride in one of their carriages is an experience I should add to my list for a future visit.

Hoping for the festival's full return

Against the backdrop of a brilliant sky with magnificent clouds, the day was undeniably a great one. While the Sanja Festival had not yet returned to its full glory, the spirit of celebration was palpable. One can only hope for the festival’s complete revival in the coming year, where the vibrant kimonos and beloved pets will once again grace the grounds of Sensoji Temple, creating a spectacle for all to enjoy. It seems my photographic journey is beginning to take an unexpected, yet wonderfully colorful, turn.

Photo gear for this shoot

Camera body: Fujifilm X-T3

Fujifilm Lenses: 

  • XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR 
  • XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS
Picture of Rohan Gillett
Rohan Gillett

Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.

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