For years, work obligations kept me away from experiencing the Sanja Matsuri on a Saturday. 2018 finally broke that streak, and it was well worth the wait. While I had visited before, this particular day was a revelation, teaching me new aspects of one of Tokyo’s most significant festivals. Of course, one thing hadn’t changed: the sheer density of the spectators. “Ginormous” might be the only word fitting enough to describe the crowds that descend upon Asakusa.
To understand the magnitude of this event, you have to look at the numbers. The festival revolves entirely around the mikoshi (portable shrines). There are approximately 100 of them representing various local neighborhoods, all touring the streets to bring good fortune to the community.
It is important to distinguish the rhythm of the weekend. Sundays are famous for the three colossal mikoshi belonging to Asakusa Shrine. These massive structures approach the Kaminarimon Gate, where bearers hoist them as high as possible in a display that is as noisy as it is exhilarating. However, my focus this time was the unique atmosphere of Saturday.
On Saturday, the action concentrated heavily around the grounds of Asakusa Shrine and Sensoji Temple. Watching the flow of the procession, I observed some mikoshi returning from the neighborhoods through the famous Hozo Gate. Others streamed in through various side entrances.
Once inside the temple grounds, the mikoshi were carried to the back of the temple and placed on blocks. This offered a brief respite for the bearers. They got a well-deserved break given the physical exertion involved—while the crowd milled about, seizing the opportunity to take photos of the ornate shrines at rest.
At 1:30 PM, the energy shifted. The crews hoisted the mikoshi once more, carrying them to Asakusa Shrine to receive a priest’s blessing before restarting their neighborhood tours.
I positioned myself strategically behind the torii (gate) at the entrance, which turned out to be the perfect vantage point. From only fifty meters away, I watched the priests perform the blessings. As the processions made their way out, they passed within centimeters of where I stood. It was an intense, immersive experience that allowed me to capture some exceptional images.
These mikoshi are immense, weighing nearly a ton. They are supported on long poles by roughly forty people who bounce the shrine rhythmically on their shoulders.
For photographers, getting close is essential for impact, and generally, no one will complain if you move in to get the shot. However, situational awareness is non-negotiable. With heavy timber moving erratically and adrenaline-fueled bearers navigating dense crowds, bumping into someone can quickly create a dangerous situation.
Reflecting on the day, my only regret is not staying until the very end. I made the mistake of heading home early, daunted by the prospect of sorting and editing the 1,600+ images I had already captured. I now realize that the editing could have waited. The atmosphere of Sanja Matsuri is fleeting, and I should have soaked up every moment. Fortunately, the festival is annual. Another chance to capture the magic is only a year away.
The Sanja Matsuri remains one of Tokyo’s most dynamic cultural events. For photographers and travelers visiting Asakusa, here is what you need to know:
Camera body: Fujifilm X-T2
Lens: Fujifilm XF 16-55mm F2.8 R LM WR
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5 these days. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.