Setsubun at Zojoji Temple in 2023
Setsubun is popular in Japan. It comes in February. And guess what? I’ve been here for thirty years and have never done it. Are you shocked? It’s true. But in 2023, the stars aligned. I had a day off and Zojoji temple would celebrate it. That’s where I went. By the way, do you know what this festival is about?
What is Setsubun?
Setsubun (節分) is a festival that marks the day before the beginning of spring in Japan’s old calendar. Its rituals drive away the previous year’s bad fortunes and evil spirits. For most people that means mamemaki. And that means fun!
What is Mamemaki?
The ritual associated with Setsubun is mamemaki. It means bean scattering. Japanese throw roasted soybeans (fortune beans) out their home’s front door. Then they shout “Devils out! Fortune in!” (Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!).
The beans are thought to purify the home. They drive away evil spirits and bad health. If you eat them, eat one for each year of your life (plus one more!) for more luck. Sounds good right? It is, but it gets better because you can also do it in public, at some temples and shrines.
What happened at Sensoji’s Setsubun?
I’m not sure, to be honest! It was my first time to photograph it. I had no idea what the format would be. I concentrated on my camera to get usable photos. There was commentary, but I didn’t have time to listen to it.
But there was a parade. The priests of Zojoji led a long line of people. There were kids from a kindergarten and some dogs. If you were there and knew what it was about, could you fill me in?
Once the event started, people on stage threw manju and beans into the crowd. People went crazy trying to catch them. Some even took big bags hoping to scoop more.
The stage event went five times. Once one group finished, they were ushered off to the side. Then another would be brought up the steps. I wish I could have seen them all.
It was worth waiting thirty years to see Setsubun. The event is great for families. Other temples and shrines in Tokyo hold it so next year, I might go to a new place. Leave questions and comments below.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.
More Tokyo event articles:
External related websites:
- Zojoji Temple (official website)