A Photographer’s Guide to Shibamata Taishakuten
Tucked away in eastern Tokyo, Shibamata Taishakuten offers a unique and captivating experience for any visitor, especially photographers. While many temples in the city draw crowds, this one provides a more serene atmosphere, allowing you to immerse yourself in its rich history and stunning artistry. Its famous garden and remarkable wall carvings are a feast for the eyes and a rewarding subject for your lens.
The masterful wall carvings: A story in wood
The temple’s most celebrated features are the large wooden panels that adorn its walls, each depicting intricate scenes from the Lotus Sutra. These unpainted carvings, protected by a two-story glass enclosure, showcase the incredible skill of the artisans who created them. The level of detail is extraordinary, and you can spend a significant amount of time imagining the dedication poured into each piece. These masterworks were crafted between 1922 and 1934 and have been meticulously preserved. Similar carvings extend to the walkways connecting other temple buildings, continuing the beautiful Buddhist narrative. Once a year, they are carefully brushed to remove dust, a testament to their delicate preservation.
The Zui-Ryu-no-Matsu "Dragon" pine tree
In front of the temple stands the magnificent “Zui-Ryu-no-Matsu,” which translates to the “Pine Tree of the Lucky Dragon.” This ancient pine, over 500 years old, has branches that sprawl dramatically, one extending over fourteen meters and another over twelve, resembling a dragon in its form. This living sculpture is a powerful symbol of longevity and good fortune.
Exploring Suikeien Garden and Daikyakuden
Behind the main hall lies the exquisite Suikeien garden, a stunning example of a strolling pond garden. Designed by the famed garden architect Nagai Rakuzan, it is considered a significant example of its type from the late Edo period. A covered walkway allows visitors to enjoy the serene landscape, complete with a carp-filled pond and Buddhist-themed stonework, regardless of the weather. The garden also features a guesthouse, or Daikyakuden, built in 1929 entirely of cypress. From its verandah, you can imagine guests of a bygone era sipping tea and enjoying the peaceful view.
History and the "Tora-san" connection
Founded in 1629 by two Nichiren Buddhist monks, Shibamata Taishakuten has a rich history. While the main hall was rebuilt in the 1800s after a fire, and much of the current structure dates to the Meiji and early Showa periods, the temple has remarkably survived major events like the Great Kanto Earthquake and World War II bombings. The temple and its surrounding neighborhood gained widespread fame as the setting for Japan’s longest-running film series, “Otoko wa Tsurai yo” (“It’s tough being a man”). The beloved protagonist, Tora-san, a kind-hearted traveling salesman, always returned to his hometown of Shibamata. As you explore the area, you’ll encounter nods to this cinematic legacy, including a bronze statue of Tora-san near the station.
One of the 100 Soundscapes of Japan
The temple’s cultural significance is further highlighted by its inclusion in the “100 Soundscapes of Japan” by the Ministry of the Environment in 1996, recognizing the unique and cherished sounds of the temple and its surroundings.
Photography opportunities & tips
This temple is a haven for photographers, offering a variety of subjects in a relatively uncrowded setting. Key photographic highlights include:
- The intricate details of the temple wall carvings.
- The serene beauty of the Buddhist-themed Suikeien garden.
- The dramatic form of the Zui-Ryu-no-Matsu pine tree.
- The traditional architecture of the guesthouse.
Photography Tips
- Photography is generally straightforward.
- Be aware that some areas within the glass enclosure for the carvings may be dark depending on the time of day.
- Tripods are not permitted.
Exploring the Shibamata neighborhood
The charm of Shibamata extends beyond the temple grounds. The street leading to the temple is lined with traditional shops selling sweets and food, offering a taste of old Edo. For those with more time, nearby attractions include:
- Mizumoto Park
- Zenyoji Temple
- Tora-san Museum: A must for fans of the film series.
- Yamamoto-Tei: A former merchant’s residence with a beautiful garden, offering a mix of Japanese and Western architecture.
Many visitors also take the opportunity to visit nearby Oshiage and its Tokyo Skytree.
Visitor information: Access, hours, and fees
- Address: 7-10-3 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo
- Closest Train Station: Shibamata on the Keisei Kanamachi Line.
- Opening Hours: The temple grounds are generally open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The carving gallery and garden are open from 9:00 to 16:00.
- Admission: Entry to the temple grounds is free. Access to the wall carvings and the Suikeien garden requires an admission fee of 400 yen.
- For the most up-to-date information, consult the official Shibamata Taishakuten website.
- Click the image below to see the temple on Google Maps:
How to get to Shibamata from Central Tokyo
- From Shinjuku or Shibuya, the journey takes about an hour with a few train changes.
- From Oshiage (Skytree), it’s about twenty minutes.
- From Keisei-Ueno or Nippori Station, take the Keisei Main Line to Keisei-Takasago Station and transfer to the Keisei Kanamachi Line for Shibamata. The trip takes about 25 minutes.
Is Shibamata Taishakuten worth it?
While Shibamata Taishakuten may be a little off the beaten path for some, its unique charm and rich cultural tapestry make it a rewarding destination. It offers a peaceful and picturesque alternative to Tokyo’s more famous temples, providing a wealth of opportunities for stunning photography and a genuine connection to the city’s history.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
