Shibuya Halloween Eve 2018

“Shibuya Halloween Eve”—it’s a phrase I coined, but it’s an event the city embraces with full-throttle intensity. On October 30, 2018, the streets of Shibuya transformed into a warm-up party for the main event on the 31st, and the energy was electric. Thousands of people, dressed in the most imaginative and fantastic outfits imaginable, took over. The famous district became the venue for the craziest street party in Tokyo.

From Venom to anti-karaage activist costumes

In 2018, two costumes really stood out to me. The first was a seriously cool Venom, who looked like he had walked straight out of the movie. The second, and my favorite, was a pair of chickens actively campaigning against karaage (Japanese fried chicken). The sheer irony of it was hilarious. It really made me cluck.

Of course, the classics made their annual appearance. Hordes of undead nurses, nuns, and brides (both living and deceased) roamed the streets. Marios and Wallys could be spotted in the dense crowds, adding a touch of nostalgic fun to the night’s chaos.

It was also the first time I’d ever seen a kyonshi in person. These hopping zombies originate from Chinese folklore (where they are known as jiangshi). Seeing them bouncing through the Shibuya throngs was a surreal experience. That night, I also spotted a wolf armed with a machine gun, seemingly on the hunt for a girl in a red outfit. I’m pretty sure he was trying to settle an old score from a storybook.

The atmosphere: A friendly frenzy

Despite the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, the atmosphere was overwhelmingly positive. There’s something about Halloween in Shibuya that brings out the friendliest side of people. Almost everyone I asked was happy to stop and pose for a photo, always with a huge smile. For its incredible energy and welcoming spirit, this Tokyo event gets top marks from me.

A survivor's guide to the crowds

If you’ve ever played a game of ‘Sardines,’ you’ll have some idea of what Shibuya Halloween is like—only on a colossal scale. Key areas like Hachiko Square and the iconic Shibuya Crossing are packed but manageable, offering great opportunities for wide shots of the pandemonium.

The true epicenter of the madness, however, is Center Gai. This narrow street becomes an unbelievable sea of people, and the only way through is to push your way forward gently. My number one tip for survival: whatever you do, do not fall over! Stay aware of your surroundings and just move with the flow.

Essential tips for your Halloween adventure

If you’re planning to experience this for yourself, here are a few things to keep in mind:

Getting There: Shibuya Station is a major hub on the JR Yamanote Line, making it easily accessible from most parts of Tokyo.
Bathrooms: Be prepared for long lines. With so many people converging in one area, facilities are stretched to their limits.
Costume Prep: Get into your costume at your accommodation. Many shops and public facilities prohibit using their restrooms for changing.

Rules and etiquette

The following rules were in place in 2018 and are generally similar each year. However, it’s always a good idea to check the official Shibuya City website for the latest regulations.

In recent years, the city has increased safety patrols to maintain order.
Starting in late October, an alcohol ban is typically enforced in public areas. From 6 p.m. to 5 a.m., many local liquor stores stop selling alcohol to discourage street drinking.
Be respectful of your surroundings and make sure to take all of your rubbish home with you.

Was it worth it? Absolutely

Even with the immense crowds, the sheer creativity and infectious energy of Shibuya Halloween Eve 2018 made it unforgettable. It may be the prequel to the bigger celebration on October 31st, but this warm-up is a massive event in its own right. If you’re a fan of people-watching and want to see some of the most incredible costumes on the planet, this is the place to be.