Each June, Tokyo transforms with the vibrant colors of hydrangeas or ajisai, as they are known in Japan. For a truly unique viewing experience away from the central city bustle, Takahata Fudoson temple in Hino offers a spectacular combination of natural beauty and deep history. I hope you enjoy these photos from 2018.
Before you even reach the flowers, you’ll be struck by the temple’s historical atmosphere. As one of the Kanto region’s most important temples, its history spans over a millennium. It is famously known as the family temple of Toshizō Hijikata, a formidable vice-commander of the Shinsengumi, the legendary Edo-period police force. The impressive five-story pagoda and ancient halls stand as a testament to this rich past.
In early summer’s rainy season, the temple’s main attraction is the breathtaking display of Takahata Fudoson hydrangeas. Unlike manicured city gardens, the majority of these flowers grow wild across a vast, rambling hillside behind the temple. This natural setting is what makes the experience so memorable.
Visitors can explore the blooms along three scenic trails: the “Path of Four Seasons,” the “Path of the Hydrangea,” and the “Pilgrim’s Path.” This final trail offers a unique cultural experience as a mini-replica of Shikoku’s famous 88-temple pilgrimage, complete with Jizo statues marking each symbolic stop. Wandering the winding paths to discover clusters of colorful flowers is a genuine adventure, offering a sense of peace and discovery.
This location is a paradise for photographers. The combination of the natural landscape, traditional temple architecture, and fewer crowds than central Tokyo spots makes it easy to capture beautiful shots. On a clear day, the trails offer lovely views over western Tokyo, providing an even more stunning backdrop for the flowers. The sight of hydrangeas framing the temple’s historic pagoda is a particularly special photo opportunity.
While inner-city gardens like Hakusan Shrine are beautiful, the charm of the Takahata Fudoson hydrangeas lies in this expansive, natural environment. It feels less like a formal flower bed and more like a gentle hike through a mountain landscape bursting with color.
The journey is rewarding beyond the floral display. Exploring the ornate worship halls and paying a visit to the powerful statue of Toshizō Hijikata adds a fascinating historical dimension to your visit. It’s this blend of nature and heritage that makes the trip worthwhile.
Though it feels a world away, the Takahata Fudoson hydrangeas are easily accessible. An express train from Shinjuku will get you there in just over thirty minutes. For a truly unforgettable day trip that combines stunning flowers, Japanese history, and a refreshing walk, this festival should be at the top of your list.
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.