Tama Cemetery
My first visit to Tama Cemetery was an eye-opener. I discovered the makers, shakers, and giants of Japan’s past rest there. History lovers and fans of grave architecture will find it fascinating. People who like quirky stuff will enjoy it, too.
The cemetery is about a forty-minute train ride from Shinjuku. It occupies 128 hectares. I doubt you could see everything in one day due to its size. Anyway, we are here for photos, so let’s talk about those.
Things to Photograph at Tama Cemetery
The tomb architecture and history are impressive. Tama is on the same level as Aoyama, Zoshigaya, and Yanaka. Enormous kanji-covered monoliths, stone lanterns, and mound-shaped crypts fill the grounds.
Shinto and Buddhist icons are standard, but Christian crosses are sprinkled among them. A columbarium is also on the grounds. There is even a foreign section. Many of its graves seem to have a Middle East connection.
Some of Tama’s residents had a good sense of humor in life. Others wanted to express their appreciation to their loved ones. These people decorated their graves appropriately.
No large buildings or skyscrapers are near Tama Cemetery. Trees cover the grounds. It is quiet and peaceful. Spring is an excellent time for a visit.
Who is Buried in Tama Cemetery?
It’s a Who’s Who of Japanese historical figures. Here is an abbreviated list:
- Araki, Sadao (1877 -1966) – senior commander in the Imperial Japanese Army. He was also a right-wing political theorist in the Japanese Empire
- Arita, Hachihiro (1884 -1965) – government minister. He supposedly created the concept of the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere
- Azuma, Ryotaro (1893 -1983) – doctor, bureaucrat, and Governor of Tokyo from 1959 to 1967
- Edogawa, Ranpo (1894 -1965) – author and critic. He played a significant role in the development of Japanese mystery fiction
- Hayashi, Senjuro (1876 -1943) – Imperial Japanese Army commander. He was also the 33rd prime minister of Japan
- Kaitani, Yaoko (1921-1991) – ballerina
- Kitagawa, Fuyuhiko (1900 -1990) – poet and film critic
- Kurita, Takeo (1889 -1977) – senior Imperial Japanese Navy commander during World War II
- Mishima, Yukio (1925 -1970) – literary figure
- Ōoka, Shōhei (1909 -1988) – literary figure and translator of French literature
- Sorge, Richard (1895 -1944) – German communist who spied for Russia and was executed during WW2
- Starffin, Victor (1916 -1957) – first professional baseball pitcher in Japan to win three hundred games
- Takahashi, Korekiyo (1854-1936) – politician and 20th prime minister of Japan. His house is at the Edo Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum
- Tatekawa, Yoshitsugu (1880 -1945) – senior commander in the Imperial Japanese Army in WW2. He was also an ambassador to the Soviet Union
- Togo, Heihachirō (1848 -1934) – Japanese naval hero
- Yamahata, Yōsuke (1917 -1966) – photographer of the Nagasaki bombing
- Yamamoto, Isoroku (1884-1943) – Admiral and WW2 navy commander-in-chief
- Yosano, Akiko (1878 – 1942) – author, poet, pioneering feminist (in Japan), pacifist, and social reformer
Look at the names on that list. Many of them had a massive impact on Japanese history. Togo, Yamamoto, and Sorge influenced world events. There are more. Tama Cemetery is the resting place of giants.
Problems Photographing at Tama Cemetery
How do you find people? Tama Cemetery is divided into blocks and rows. Everything is numbered, including the graves. Where’s that information? It’s on bilingual (Japanese and English) maps at the administration building.
Big signboards with maps scattered throughout the grounds help visitors. Landmarks, toilets, etc., are marked on them. So finding graves should be easy with that information, right?
It’s not always easy. Tama is enormous. The place resembles a jigsaw puzzle. Plot sizes vary. Nothing is uniform. Thick grass and weeds are in some areas. Gravestones become worn and eroded. Identifying tombstones might be problematic.
That makes the English maps less useful. Why? Keep the above problem in mind. Let’s add one more. Japanese is on the overwhelming majority of tombstones. The chance of not finding the grave you want is high. Arrange linguistic help before you go to avoid trouble.
There is a general knowledge problem. Let’s use the writer Ranpo Edogawa as an example. His real name was Taro Hirai, and his tomb bears that. If you don’t know that, you can’t find him. Do your research before you go to avoid this type of problem. Wikipedia is an excellent source of information.
Yukio Mishima fans are in for bad news. You have to find it by yourself. His family wants it protected for various reasons, and the staff respect their wishes. They won’t tell you where he is. The grave isn’t on the map.
Photography Tips
- Tama is flat and spacious, with many types of tombstones, so any lens works.
- Long exposures can be good. The cemetery opens at 8 AM. That rules out sunrise pictures. But sunset is possible, in the cooler months.
- If you take a bag of heavy photo gear, use Tama Station. It is much closer to the cemetery than Tama-Reien (about a twenty-minute walk).
Best Time to Visit
Many people say spring is best for the cherry blossoms. I can vouch for that, as I have seen them. They are good!
Where is Tama Cemetery?
Address: 4 Chome-628 Tamacho, Fuchu, Tokyo 183-0002
Here it is on a Google map:
A Brief History of the Cemetery
- It opened as Tama Graveyard in 1923.
- Named change to Tama Cemetery in 1935.
- The Japanese Air Force hid aircraft from Chofu Airport there during WW2.
Closest train stations:
- Tama – Seibu Tamagawa Line (this one is closest)
- Tama-Reien – Keio Line
Photo Spots in the Area
Conclusion
Many famous people and their graves are at Tama Cemetery. They were the makers and shakers of Japanese history. Luckily, most are easy to find.
It is big, so you can’t see every grave of interest. To avoid disappointment, plan before you go. Good preparation makes for less stress.
Put Tama Cemetery on your list if you want an interesting place to spend time in Tokyo. It might be far out in the suburbs for some, but it is worth it. You’ll get interesting photos too. Leave questions and comments below.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.
More Tokyo cemeteries:
External related websites:
- Tama Cemetery (official website)