Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall: A Tribute to History

Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall
The Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall.

The Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall was built to commemorate two tragic events. One was the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake that killed 100,000 people. The other was the 1945 Bombing of Tokyo which killed roughly the same number. Many died but the city has not forgotten. They are remembered here.

Memorial services are held annually to remember the events of 1923 and 1945. Politicians, members of the general public, and survivors attend them. It’s doubtful the earthquake and air raids will ever be forgotten. Tribute is paid to history.

Great Tokyo Air Raid Memorial
Great Tokyo Air Raid Memorial.

Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall also commemorates another event connected with the earthquake. That was the massacres of Koreans in its aftermath. This must be the darkest stain on Tokyo’s history. To call it a tragedy would be considered by some to be an understatement.

During the earthquake, the Ministry of Home Affairs declared martial law. Officials warned the police that certain groups might take advantage of the situation. Unfortunately, rumors said Koreans were planning acts of terrorism and arson.

Newspapers ran the story without checking the facts. One thing led to another and approximately 6000 Koreans were murdered. Some sources claim higher numbers. Prosecutions were few. The sentences handed out were lenient. The massacres are one reason why the relationship between Japan and Korea can be rocky. Tokyo Governor Yuriko Koike’s attitude towards the event doesn’t help.

Memorial for Koreans massacred during Great Kanto Earthquake
Memorial for Koreans massacred during Great Kanto Earthquake.

Visiting Memorial Hall invokes two sets of very different feelings in me. Of course, one is sadness due to the sheer amount of people who died during those events long ago. The other is thinking about how the earthquake and bombings affected Tokyo.  And to be honest, the second set of feelings isn’t negative at all.

Shisa dog guardian deity
A guardian deity at the front of the hall.

Inside the hall are pictures of the aftermath of the earthquake and the bombings. They are incredible. The black and white images show whole areas completely flattened, gone. Nothing left but rubble. In one picture, bodies burnt beyond recognition, stacked upon each other. In both cases, what could the city do? It got up and rebuilt itself.

That makes me reflect upon history. These tragic events influenced changed Tokyo. But, if they didn’t happen, how different would the city be today? Would it be better or not? There is no answer, but it is an interesting question to ponder. I only know I am satisfied with what the city has developed.

Memorial to remember children who died in disasters
Memorial for children who died in disasters.

If you ever visit Tokyo Memorial Hall, give a thought to the people who are enshrined there. And to the destruction that happened around them. It must have been terrifying when they met their fates. As with many such historical events, there is no way we could understand how they felt.

Next to the hall is the Kanto Earthquake Memorial Museum. Entry is free, and I urge you to visit it. The museum is small, old, and needs upgrading, but the exhibits are compelling. They tell the story of September 1, 1923, very well.

It is one of my favorite museums in Tokyo. You wouldn’t spend even half a day there, but that visit will give you something to ponder. There is also a good chance some of the exhibits will teach you something about that fateful day.

If you are looking for something on the lighter side after visiting here, head to the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Are you an art lover? What about samurai swords? You could kill two birds with one stone by dropping into the Japanese Sword Museum at Yasuda Gardens. It’s just around the corner. Whatever you choose, you’ll find something.

A final note. Visit the hall in autumn. Why? The grounds also have a small park filled with ginkgo trees. They add a lovely touch of color to this Tokyo photo spot. If ever a place needed more beauty, this is the one.

Where is Tokyo Metropolitan Memorial Hall?

Address: 2-3-25 Yokoami, Sumida City, Tokyo

Here it is on a Google map:

Closest train station

It’s Ryogoku Stations. There are two of them. One is a JR and the other is a Metro. From the JR, it’s about a ten-minute walk. If you use the subway, it’s about a five-minute walk.

Opening hours

9 AM to 4:30 PM

Admission costs

None

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