Tucked away in the modern cityscape of Akasaka, Toyokawa Inari Tokyo Betsuin is a spiritual oasis guarded by an army of stone foxes. While other temples might have a handful of these divine messengers, this one is home to a staggering collection of what feels like a thousand. For photographers and curious travelers, it’s a treasure trove of textures, colors, and compelling subjects—from the weathered stone of the guardians to the brilliant red of their votive bibs.
A brief history of the temple
It was built in 1828 and is a branch of Toyokawa Inari Temple in Toyokawa City, Aichi Prefecture. In the Edo period, it gained a reputation as the place to pray for the return of lost items or protection against theft.
These days, it attracts entertainers and athletes. If you look at the ema (votive tablets), you’ll find many Jpop group names written on many of them. They seek divine help. It’s rumored celebrities even pray at the temple on New Year’s Day!
The fox guardians: Messengers of Inari
The statues themselves are a fascinating study. They vary dramatically in size, from tiny, palm-sized figures to imposing guardians. Each is stylized, typically seated with its tail in the air, but no two are exactly alike.
Look closely at their mouths or front paws; they hold symbolic items like a key to a granary, a jewel of wisdom, a scroll of knowledge, or even a sheaf of rice. Most are adorned with red yodarekake (votive bibs), which are believed to offer protection to the divine messengers and, by extension, to children and worshippers.
Why does the temple have so many of them? Foxes are the messengers of Inari, one of the temple’s resident deities. Their number suggests the sheer volume of prayers and messages they are tasked with carrying for the god.
Stepping past the temple’s fences, you leave the concrete jungle behind. The grounds are an oasis of tranquility, where tall trees offer welcome shade from Tokyo’s brutal summer sun and muffle the sounds of the city. While it may not have the sheer scale of Sensoji or Meiji Jingu, Toyokawa Inari’s power lies in its incredibly dense and atmospheric details.
Your first destination should be the cluster of fox statues that serves as a tribute to the famous Reiko-zuka (Spirit Fox Mound) of the main temple in Aichi. Here in the Tokyo branch, stone guardians are gathered on a tiered mound, each with a unique expression and adorned with a red bib.
But the foxes at the mound are only the beginning. Part of the fun at Toyokawa Inari is discovering the treasures packed into its nooks and crannies. A real challenge for visitors is to find the statues of all Seven Lucky Gods, who are scattered throughout the grounds.
As you explore, look for other scenes: the curls of smoke rising from the main incense burner, the rows of red and white banners that are Inari’s traditional colors, the peaceful corner with a small garden, and the intricate details of the smaller worship halls dedicated to other deities like Benzaiten and Daikoku-ten.
Toyokawa, being a popular place, has many visitors. Some come to sightsee, and others to rest or even eat lunch. The majority come to pray. Keep this in mind when taking pictures. Sometimes it is easy to get focused on taking a photo. At those times, we don’t realize we are blocking a pathway or intruding on a person’s privacy.
Here it is on a Google map:
While Tokyo has no shortage of magnificent temples, Toyokawa Inari Tokyo Betsuin offers a unique experience. It’s a place where the spiritual and the photogenic merge, where hundreds of stone eyes seem to follow you, and where the city’s noise fades behind a sea of red bibs.
Whether you’re seeking good fortune, a moment of peace, or that one perfect photograph, the fox guardians are waiting. Don’t miss the chance to explore one of Tokyo’s most enchanting hidden gems.
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5 these days. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
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