Ueno Toshogu is the Golden Shrine
I don’t go to Ueno Park much. It’s a popular place, but it is on the east side of Tokyo. That is far. One day, I went there for a photo shoot. It was canceled, just as I arrived. What was I to do? I decided to reacquaint myself with Ueno Toshogu in Ueno Park!
The golden shrine is remarkable when you consider all it has seen. It survived the Battle of Ueno (1868), the Great Kanto Earthquake (1923), and the WW2 firebombings. Like Gokokuji, it is a rare example of early Edo-era architecture in Tokyo. The government has designated several of its structures as Important Cultural Properties.
The golden building of the shrine is remarkable when you consider all it has seen. It survived the Battle of Ueno (1868), the Great Kanto Earthquake (1923), and the WW2 firebombings. Like Gokokuji, this shrine is a rare example of actual early Edo-era architecture in Tokyo. The government has designated several of its structures as Important Cultural Properties.
For me, it is about the photography. Ueno Toshogu is beautiful. Of course it is, with all that gold. Decorations and motifs cover the shrine’s walls. Animals, like birds and shisa (lions), cover the buildings. It is stunning.
A Brief History of Ueno Toshogu
- Ueno Toshogu is dedicated to Ieyasu Tokugawa (1543–1616), the first Tokugawa shogun. The Daimyo Takatora Todo, who served him, built the shrine in 1627. At that time, Todo had a residence in the Ueno area. He wanted a memorial to the man he had served on his grounds.
- Originally, the shrine’s name was Toshosha, but it changed in 1645. Toshogu is the official name for shrines dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu. Others are in Tokyo and Japan. I’m sure you’ve heard of the big one in Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture.
- Iemitsu Tokugawa, the third shogun, rebuilt it in 1651. The gold leaf decoration and colorful carvings on the buildings date from this time. He died in the same year. That might have been fortunate, as he had a new, beautiful shrine waiting for him!
- Besides Ieyasu and Iemitsu, others are there too. One is Yoshimune. The 15th and last shogun, Yoshinobu, is there too. His actual grave is at Yanaka Cemetery. A lot of Japanese history at this shrine.
Things to photograph at Ueno Toshogu
- 48 bronze lanterns are on the outer shrine grounds. Daimyo Japan donated them. They are only used for ritual ceremonies and are designated Important Cultural Properties.
- A pagoda is next to the shrine. Enter the zoo to see it.
- Ueno Toshogu has a peony garden full of them. They bloom twice a year: in winter and spring.
Where is Ueno Toshogu?
Location: Ueno Park
Address: 9-88 Uenokoen, Taito City, Tokyo
Here it is on a Google map:
Closest train/subway stations and lines:
Keisei Ueno –
- Keisei Main Line
Ueno –
- Keihin-Tōhoku Line
- Yamanote Line
- Jōban Line
- Ginza Line
- Hibiya Line
Opening hours
9 AM to 5:30 PM
Entry Fees
500 yen
Conclusion
The only downside to Ueno Toshogu is the entry. ¥500 for one building is expensive. Meiji Shrine and Sensoji are free. Well, they don’t have the gold.
If you are into shrines or architectural photography, I recommend it. The bonus is that it is in Ueno Park, so there is much to do after your visit. You can’t go wrong with this place. Leave questions and comments below.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.
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