The mesmerizing neon of Tokyo, with its vibrant, retro aesthetic, is a dream for many photographers. While famous spots like Kabukicho and Shibuya get most of the attention, the city hides lesser-known gems for those willing to explore. One of my favorites is a small fish restaurant with a world of character: Uonami in Shiinamachi.
Step out of Shiinamachi Station and you’ll immediately feel the “Showa” atmosphere—a nostalgic vibe from the post-war era when new technology and old traditions coexisted. Uonami is a perfect relic of this time. It’s a sakaba, a down-to-earth, no-frills fish restaurant where the sake is good and the food is cheap. But while the tables on the street offer a perfect spot for summer dining, it’s the building’s facade that commands a photographer’s attention.
A stunning collection of neon signs clings to the old building, pulling your eyes upward. Uonami’s lantern beckons to customers. Above it, the signs for Sakae Constructions and Actis Real Estate glow. On a rainy night, the entire scene transforms into something straight out of Blade Runner. As steam rises from the pavement and the neon glow reflects in shimmering puddles, you can almost imagine Gaff walking by with his umbrella. It’s fantastic for Tokyo night photography.
A tip for first-time visitors: at first glance, the three layers of signs look like they belong to one building, but they don’t. The top sign is actually on the building behind—a simple mistake to make at night. This is the time to shoot the location, as passing cars, taxis, and bicycles leave beautiful light trails. For a different mood, try shooting a little earlier to catch the last dying embers of sunlight in the sky.
Address: 1-39-1 Higashiikebukuro, Toshima City, Tokyo
It is in front of the Seibu-Ikebukuro line’s Shiinamachi Station.
Click the image below to see the restaurant on Google Maps:
Uonami is near the Shuto Expressway, which has a conveniently placed bridge (marked on the map). Place your camera on its walkway.
I took nine images and stacked them in Photoshop. How did I do that?
Before you go, have the right equipment. For the best-looking long exposure, these items are must-haves:
Photo stacking is the secret to a frame packed with dense, overlapping light trails. A single long exposure might only capture a few vehicles. By blending multiple shots, you can create a “river of light.”
Here’s the easy way to do it in Adobe Photoshop:
And that’s it! Once Photoshop has done its magic, you should have an amazing image. Carry out more edits if they are warranted.
The Uonami photo is a mini-scene from Blade Runner. It is a must-take “Tokyo neon” photo for long-exposure fans. While I’m happy with this shot from my first visit, I’m already planning a return. I know I can improve it. A clearer sky or getting the last deep blue of twilight could add more drama to the background.
I hope this guide helps you get this sci-fi photo. Uonami is waiting for photographers from all over the world. See its official website here.
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
2 Comments
Thank-you for the tip to photo stack. Such a complex light scene cannot be taken with a single shot. I was wondering how others pulled it off.
Thanks for the kind comment Johnny. I’m glad you found the article useful. But I must admit I need to remake that photo as the sky does look a little “mushy”.