Yanaka Cemetery: The Last Shogun’s resting place
Ieyasu Tokugawa seized power in Japan in 1600 and became Shogun in 1603. After he retired, the title passed to his son Hidetada. The dynasty lasted until 1868. Here are some questions. Who was the last one? When did he die? Where was he buried?
Did you say Yoshinobu Tokugawa? And that he died in 1913 and lay in Yanaka cemetery? Yes? Then you gave three correct answers! Today, you can visit his grave at that cemetery in Tokyo’s Taito ward. It is an incredible piece of Japanese history.
I expected a grander grave. Yoshinobu certainly didn’t get that. He got something that looked like an upturned pot made of cobblestones. It might be one meter wide. You could call it a mini version of the Emperors’ tombs at Musashi Imperial Graveyard.
The plot is quite large. Near him is his wife, Mikako. Companions were buried near him. There is also a communal grave for his children (mortality rates were high in those days). Of course, you can only view it from behind a gate. Everything is in good condition and it’s obvious it is well tended.
But Yanaka isn’t only about Yoshinobu. There are actors, actresses, sumo wrestlers, poets, writers, painters, educators, and politicians. Even a saint (a Russian one!), a Tokyo mayor, and a politician lay there. Graves maps are available at the administration building.
The problem is that while the names are in English and numbered, the gravestones are in Japanese. That might be problematic for many people. But Yoshinobu`s is easy to find. There are signs to it in Japanese and English.
What can you photograph at the cemetery?
- Autumn leaves
- Cherry blossoms
- Historical graves
- Tokyo Skytree
- The grave of Japan’s last shogun.
Special notes
- You can get a map with grave locations at the cemetery administration office.
- Throughout the cemetery are some bilingual plaques. They will explain the use of bamboo in grave fences. You will have to spot them, though!
Photo spots near Yanaka Cemetery
- Tennoji Temple (with a Big Buddha)
- Ueno Park (cherry blossoms)
- Ueno Toshogu shrine
Where is Yanaka Cemetery?
Address: 7 Chome-5-24 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo
Here it is on a Google map:
Closest train station:
Nippori on the:
- Joban Line (Rapid)
- Keihin–Tōhoku Line
- Yamanote Line
- Keisei Main Line
The cemetery is only a short walk away.
Opening hours
The grounds are open 24 hours a day.
The administration office (where you get the maps) is open from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM.
Admission costs
None
Conclusion
The big question is when to visit Yanaka. I would choose spring or autumn. A road goes through the middle of it. Its name is “Sakura-Dori” (or Cherry Blossom Road). When its flowers bloom it is fantastic. The cemetery also has magnificent ginkgo trees. Both are great.
Yanaka is comparable to Aoyama and Zoshigaya. Large parts of it are in a natural state, with trees and long grass. The graves are roughly ordered. Paths take indiscriminate turns, and some abruptly end.
This cemetery can be delightful to walk through so keep your eyes open. Surprises await you. Tokyo Skytree will greet you at some point as it pops out from behind the trees. Tennoji Temple with its big Buddha is nearby. The area is full of picture chances.
If you are looking for an interesting Tokyo photo spot, a stroll in Yanaka Cemetery is for you. Plus it has all the history. Yoshinobu Tokugawa is the most famous, but there are so many more. If you are a Japanese history nerd, you’ll love it. Anyway, let’s finish here. Please leave questions and comments below.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.
Here are more cemetery articles:
External related websites:
- Yanaka Cemetery (official website)
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