A Photo Walk Through Zoshigaya Cemetery

Zoshigaya Cemetery is an unusual Tokyo photo spot. Some might think it a rather morbid place, but not me. The forest-like atmosphere and fascinating tombstone architecture bring the place alive. It’s perfect for a walk or photography. Great photos and history await you. Many of the people who rest there contributed to the making of modern Japan.

Zoshigaya Cemetery’s unique atmosphere

The grounds are spacious and peaceful. Tall trees cover most of its ten acres. The skyscrapers of Ikebukuro fill the gaps between their trunks. Close to one another are these two opposites: one vibrant with life, the other its demise.

Look at it on a map. Everything appears in neat rows. But from ground level, from my eye at least, clutter is everywhere. Yes, the graves are in rows, but the size and shape of each can vary. Walking through a jigsaw puzzle might be a suitable analogy.

Did someone think a forest was a good place for graves? Maybe. They certainly didn’t worry about the design or future expansion needs. Possibly that was how they did things a long time ago. Aoyama and Yanaka cemeteries are similar.

These cemeteries opened in the 1870s. A proper city plan didn’t exist in those days. What we see now might be a reflection of those times. Even Tama Cemetery, which opened later, is the same.

More “modern” Japanese cemeteries are different. Everything is in neat rows. I’m not saying one is better, but it interests me.

I love Zoshigaya’s graves! Some have a simple, sculpted rock. Tall rectangular granite gravestones are on others. A few are dome-shaped. The sky is the limit for Japanese grave design! There is much variation. You could spend hours browsing or photographing them.

Some people made theirs unique. For example, I’ve seen the Japanese character for “love” on their tombstone. A few have something witty written in English. One is made of white marble tombstone with pink cherry blossom petals carved into it. Ornamental lanterns, pagodas, angels, and even a teddy bear sprinkle the grounds. They are great for photos.

A piece of trivia for you! Some graves at Japanese cemeteries, such as Zoshigaya, have a little postbox. Visitors can place their business cards in them to let the deceased’s family know who came. Do they get used often? I have no idea, but they’re there!

Famous people buried at Zoshigaya Cemetery

Many of the people contributed to Japanese history. Some of them are:

Lafcadio Hearn–an English writer. His collection of Japanese legends and ghost stories is world-famous. He became a naturalized citizen of Japan, and his wife, Setsu, lies next to him. His gravestone carries his Japanese name, “Yakumo Koizumi.”
Kikunae Ikeda–Japanese chemist who discovered the chemistry behind umami. He was a co-founder of Ajinomoto.
John Manjiro–real name, Manjiro Nakahama. He was one of the first Japanese to visit the United States and was later an important translator.
Soseki Natsume – if you are into Japanese literature, visit this tomb. Zoshigaya Cemetery is in his book Kokoro (1914).
Ginko Ogino—Japan’s first Western-trained female doctor. Her grave is one of my favorites. The statue is tremendous.
Hideki Tojo–40th Prime Minister of Japan and army general. He was executed at Sugamo Prison, which was in nearby Ikebukuro.

How to find the graves

There are two ways. One is to go to the administration building and pick up a map. They are in English and Japanese. The graves of fifty (50) people are on them. Some are ultra-famous and some are not.

You can also walk around the cemetery and look for nameplates. Of course, not every grave has one, but the more famous ones do. They are green and fixed to a stake. On them, is the name of the person and their occupation in English and Japanese. Unfortunately, this method relies on luck.

Nearby photo spots

Gokokuji (an Edo-period temple)
Higo Hosokawa Garden (an Edo-period park)
Saint Mary’s Cathedral (a stainless steel church, home of Tokyo’s Roman Catholic community)
Sunshine 60 Observatory Tenbou Park in Ikebukuro

Essential visitor information: Location, hours, and costs

Where is Zoshigaya Cemetery?

Address: 4-25-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima City, Tokyo

Click the image below to see the cemetery on Google Maps:

Closest train station

Toden-Zoshigaya on the Toden Awaraka Line. You can see the cemetery from the platform.
Zoshigaya on the Fukutoshin Line. Leave via Exit 1 and turn right. It’s a 10-minute walk to the cemetery.

Opening hours

The grounds are open 24 hours a day.
The administration office is open from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. It’s closed from December 29 to January 3.

Admission costs

None

Is Zoshigaya worth it?

If you are into the niche genre of cemetery photography, add Zoshigaya to your Tokyo itinerary. You’ll document the resting places of important historic personages in a serene nature with the skyscrapers of Ikebukuro as a backdrop. The photos you take will stand out, telling a deeper story than the usual tourist spots.