Zoshigaya Cemetery in Photos

Soseki Natsume grave
Grave of Soseki Natsume.

Zoshigaya Cemetery is an unusual Tokyo photo spot. Some might think it a rather morbid place, but not me. With its forest-like atmosphere and fascinating tombstone architecture, it is alive. It’s perfect for a walk or photography. If you have a camera, you can get great photos there. It is another place to visit the graves of those who helped create modern Japan.

The grounds are spacious and peaceful. Tall trees cover most of its ten acres. Through gaps in the trunks, you can see the skyscrapers of Ikebukuro. These two opposites, one full of life and the other representing the end of it, are close to each other.

cherry blossom engraved tombstone
Would you like some cherry blossoms on your resting place?

If you look at it on a map, you might think that everything is in neat rows. But from ground level, from my eye at least, it looks cluttered. Yes, the graves are in rows, but the size and shape of each can vary. It can feel like walking through a jigsaw puzzle, exploring all the nooks and crannies.

It’s like someone found a forest and thought it was a good place for some graves. But, they didn’t worry about the design or future expansion needs. Possibly that was how they did things a long time ago. Aoyama and Yanaka cemeteries are similar.

Clara Maria Seymour Zoshigaya Cemetery grave
Clara Maria Seymour's grave.

These cemeteries opened in the 1870s. That was a time when there was no real city plan. So maybe what we see now is just a reflection of those times? Even Tama Cemetery, which opened later, is the same. More “modern” Japanese cemeteries look very different. They seem to have everything lined up and extremely neat. I’m not saying one is better than the other, but it is something that interests me.

And the graves? I love them! Some consist of a simple, sculpted rock. Others have tall rectangular granite gravestones. A few are dome-shaped. At Zoshigaya, it seems like the sky is the limit for grave design! There is so much variation.  You could spend hours browsing or photographing them.

Some people have tried to make theirs unique. For example, I’ve seen the Japanese character for “love” on one. A few have something witty written in English.  I love the white marble tombstone with pink cherry blossom petals carved into it. Other graves have ornamental lanterns, pagodas, and even angels. They are great for photos.

A piece of trivia for you! Some graves at Japanese cemeteries, such as Zoshigaya, have a little postbox. Visitors can place their business cards in them to let the deceased’s family know who came. I don’t know how often they get used, but they’re there!

Hideki Tojo grave
Hideki Tojo's grave.

Who is buried at Zoshigaya? 

Many people who lie in Zoshigaya Cemetery contributed to Japanese history. I can’t list them all, but they include:

  • Lafcadio Hearn – an English writer. His collection of Japanese legends and ghost stories is world-famous. He became a naturalized citizen of Japan, and his wife Setsu is next to him. His gravestone carries his Japanese name, “Yakumo Koizumi.”
  • John Manjiro – real name, Manjiro Nakahama. He was one of the first Japanese to visit the United States and was later an important translator.
  • Soseki Natsume – if you are into Japanese literature, visit this tomb. Zoshigaya Cemetery is in his book Kokoro (1914).
  • Ginko Ogino – Japan’s first Western-trained female doctor.  Her grave is one of my favorites. The statue is tremendous.
  • Hideki Tojo – the 40th prime minister of Japan and army general. His grave is still visited, and receives fresh flowers.

How to find all their graves? There are two ways. One is to go to the administration building and pick up a map. There are two, one in English and the other in Japanese.  On them, you’ll find fifty (50) people.  Some are ultra-famous and some are not.

The other way is to just walk around the cemetery and look for nameplates. Of course, not every grave has one, but the more famous ones do. They are green and fixed to a stake. On them, in English, is the name of the person and their occupation. Unfortunately, this relies on luck.

Society of the Sacred Heart Tokyo grave
Society of the Sacred Heart plot.

Photo spots near Zoshigaya Cemetery

Where is Zoshigaya Cemetery?

Address: 4-25-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima City, Tokyo

Here it is on a Google map:

Closest train stations:

  • Toden-Zoshigaya on the Toden Awaraka Line. You can see the cemetery from the platform.
  • Zoshigaya on the Fukutoshin Line. Leave via Exit 1.

Opening hours

  • The grounds are open 24 hours a day.
  • The administration office is open from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM. It’s closed from December 29 to January 3.
Ogino Ginko grave
Grave of Ogino Ginko.

Conclusion

Zoshigaya Cemetery is a great Tokyo photo spot. You can find many interesting grave architecture in its forest-like ground. Interesting photographs are waiting for you. And don’t forget you’ll also see the resting places of the superstars of Japanese history. Check it out.

Picture of Rohan Gillett
Rohan Gillett

Rohan has lived in Tokyo for 30+ years. He loves photography and plans to capture the entire city.

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