Yabusame: Photos from Meiji Shrine Grand Autumn Festival 2023

The first rider thundered past, a blur of hitatare silk, a bow, and arrows. This was Yabusame, a Shinto ritual of horseback archery that dates back to the sixth century. The goal is deceptively simple: hit three paper targets while charging down a 218-meter course. But watching the raw speed of the horse and the intense focus of the archer, you understand this is anything but simple. It’s a breathtaking, and I imagine, dangerous, display of skill.

Experiencing the Meiji Shrine Autumn Grand Festival in Harajuku

I attended the Meiji Shrine Autumn Grand Festival 2023, a three-day celebration of Emperor Meiji’s birthday held right in the heart of Harajuku. The festival is an annual event that showcases Japanese culture. While I saw impressive demonstrations of Aikido, the silent grace of Kyudo, and even the lightning-fast flick of shuriken, it was the Yabusame I had come for.

The history of Yabusame: Japan’s ancient horseback archery ritual

This ancient sport is steeped in history. While many associate it with samurai skills from the Warring States Period, its origins are actually as a Shinto ritual, first performed by Emperor Kinmei in the 6th century. Minamoto no Yoritomo then formalized it in the 12th century to improve his samurai’s discipline and skill. That spiritual connection is still palpable today. Before the first run, Shinto priests in white robes performed a blessing, their low chants carrying over the hushed crowd as they purified the bows and arrows.

It’s said that some exhibitions are used to predict the fortune of the coming year—the more targets hit, the better the harvest. With the fate of the year potentially on the line, the stakes felt incredibly high.

Photography tips: How to capture Yabusame action shots

As a photographer, capturing this high-stakes action presented its own set of challenges. My main problem wasn’t even the blistering speed of the horses, but the density of the crowd. Packed in the middle, my lens was constantly fighting a sea of heads for a clear view. I could hear the horses thunder down the runway, but a strategically placed tent often blocked my line of sight just as the rider came into frame. It demanded constant attention.

In these conditions, my camera’s continuous autofocus was a lifesaver. When I got a clear shot, it locked on beautifully. In the future, the lesson is clear: I’ll be arriving earlier to claim a better spot along the rails.

The best locations to stand along the runway

If you don’t have a camera with great autofocus, that’s okay as you can still photograph the horses and riders when they are at walking speed. But when they charge down the runway, you’ll have challenges so if you get to the event early, camp at either end of the runway.

If you’re at the start, you can shoot the riders as they prepare. If you shoot from the end of the runway, you’ll have the horses almost ahead of you. That should make focus easier, as they will be approaching you.

Beyond the archery: Kenjutsu and samurai sword demonstrations

Another sport on display at the shrine was kenjutsu which was about sword techniques. One group used bokken (wood swords) and showed their sparring skills to an appreciative audience. That was fun, hearing the clash of weapons hit each other.

The second group used the real thing, katanas. These weapons are obviously dangerous by their very nature, so only the advanced students use them. They showcased iaido and kenjutsu, the traditional Japanese arts of samurai swordsmanship. The practitioners focused on disciplined, prearranged, and high-speed techniques rather than competitive sparring.

Is Meiji Shrine’s Yabusame event worth it?

The Meiji Shrine Grand Autumn Festival is a martial arts display with the Yabusame the centerpiece. I bet even after seeing it, you’ll remember the percussive thump-thump of hooves on the runway, the snap of the bowstring, and the thud of arrows finding their mark. It’s more than a sport; it’s a piece of Japanese history, charging at full speed right before your eyes. I’m already counting the days until I can witness it again. If you want to see horse archery in the Kanto area check the schedule on the Japan Equestrian Archery Association website.