Yanaka Cemetery: A Walk Through Tokyo’s History
In a quiet corner of Tokyo’s Taito Ward lies Yanaka Cemetery, a place where history rests beneath canopies of cherry blossoms and towering trees. Here, you won’t find a grand, imperial-style mausoleum for the last shogun. Instead, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the man who oversaw the end of samurai rule, lies in a surprisingly humble grave. A visit to this peaceful cemetery is more than a tranquil stroll. It’s a connection to the end of Japan’s feudal era and a chance to discover the stories of many other notable figures from its modern history.
Established in 1872, Yanaka Cemetery spans over 10 hectares and holds approximately 7,000 graves. Once the burial ground of the adjacent Tenno-ji Temple, it was transformed into a public cemetery during the Meiji era as part of a policy to separate Buddhism and Shintoism. This transition gave the cemetery a park-like atmosphere, so much so that its name was changed from Yanaka Bochi (graveyard) to Yanaka Reien (spirit park) in 1935.
The last Shogun's resting place
A highlight for many visitors is the grave of Tokugawa Yoshinobu. While you might expect a more grandiose memorial, his tomb is a simple, cobblestone structure resembling an overturned pot, about a meter wide. It is like a miniature version of the emperors’ tombs at the Musashi Imperial Graveyard. Despite its modesty, his grave is easy to find, with signs in both Japanese and English to guide you. It is within a walled enclosure dedicated to the Tokugawa clan, which can be viewed through double-barred gates.
A who's who of Japanese history
Beyond the last shogun, Yanaka Cemetery is the final resting place for a multitude of influential figures who shaped modern Japan. The cemetery is home to the graves of artists, actors, politicians, writers, and sumo wrestlers. Some of the notable individuals buried here include:
- Ichiyo Higuchi: A prominent writer from the Meiji period, featured on the 5,000 yen note.
- Shibusawa Eiichi: A key industrialist known as the “father of Japanese capitalism.”
- Ichirō Hatoyama: A former Prime Minister of Japan.
- Tsuyoshi Kashiwado: A celebrated Yokozuna grand champion in sumo wrestling.
- Nicholas of Japan: A Russian Orthodox saint who introduced the Eastern Orthodox Church to Japan.
To help locate these graves, get a map from the cemetery administration office. Note that while names may be in English, the gravestones are inscribed in Japanese.
A photographer's seasonal paradise
Yanaka Cemetery is a delight for photographers, offering a wealth of picturesque scenes that change with the seasons.
- Cherry blossoms: In the spring, the cemetery’s central road, Sakura-dori (Cherry Blossom Avenue), transforms into a stunning tunnel of pink and white blossoms. This makes for a peaceful and less crowded cherry blossom viewing experience compared to other popular spots in Tokyo.
- Autumn leaves: During the autumn months, the cemetery’s ginkgo and cherry trees turn brilliant shades of gold and red, creating a breathtaking landscape.
- Tokyo Skytree: The iconic Tokyo Skytree peeks through the trees from various points in the cemetery. It offers a unique juxtaposition of the old and the new. The northern side of the cemetery provides some of the best vantage points.
- Historic graves and atmosphere: The weathered gravestones, mossy stone lanterns, and winding paths create a serene and nostalgic atmosphere, offering a glimpse into old Tokyo.
Nearby attractions
After exploring the cemetery, the surrounding Yanaka area, often referred to as “Yanesen” (Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi), offers more to see.
- Tenno-ji Temple: This historic temple, which dates back to the 13th century, features a large bronze Buddha statue.
- Yanaka Ginza: A retro shopping street perfect for finding local treats and handmade souvenirs.
- Nezu Shrine: Known for its path of torii gates and beautiful azalea gardens.
- Ueno Park: A short walk away, this large park is home to several museums, a zoo, and the Ueno Toshogu Shrine.
Visitor information
- Address: 7 Chome-5-24 Yanaka, Taito City, Tokyo
- Train Access: A short walk from Nippori Station, accessible via the JR Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, and Joban lines, as well as the Keisei Main Line.
- Opening Hours: The cemetery grounds are open 24 hours. The administration office is open from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
- Admission: Free
- For more information, consult the official Yanaka Cemetery website.
Click the image below to see the cemetery on Google Maps:
Other Tokyo cemeteries
Are you a history enthusiast or a photographer? Or maybe you simply want a peaceful escape from the bustling city. Whatever the case, a stroll through Yanaka Cemetery offers a unique and memorable Tokyo experience.
Rohan Gillett
Rohan has photographed Tokyo since 2011. He shoots it with his Canon EOS R5. The project will take more than one lifetime to complete.
